Episode 1, Vienna-Przemyśl

Preface

Hi, my name is Isabelle Bertges, I am a German- American artist based in New York City and I am the producer of the Podcast Inside the Other Side, Volunteering at the Polish-Ukrainian Border and inside the other side. I grew up in Europe which is why I have always felt a strong sense of unity, social responsibility and solidarity towards the countries around me. When Russia invaded Ukraine on February 24th 2022, I shortly after found myself in full train cars besides some of the millions of Ukrainian refugees who poured into Europe as a result. While I was tackling a German movie tour, they were fleeing their home to stay alive. Train Stations became transit hubs for Ukranians who were sheltered in tents, everywhere you looked there was a Ukrainian flag directing people to food, shelter, childcare and information. More than once my friends and I helped mostly mothers with children, sometimes along with grandparents, carry their luggage and pet carrier through the trains and stations. I can not think of a friend who did not at least consider taking in a Ukrainian over the course of the past year and in fact, many of them did. Still today you can find people with signs standing at the train stations, offering up free space to the newcomers. More than once I placed a successful phone call to a friend during this time, asking if they could briefly take in someone from Ukraine who I either knew was coming or who I met on my travels. Europe has changed. I knew I needed to not only loudly and clearly position myself as an artist, but also become active as a fellow european. I myself have many, year long Ukrainian friends due to former activism I have participated in, so this also became quite personal for me. Some of my friends have left their country since, many stayed, and some are going back now. While having a gap between my work this summer, I took the opportunity and traveled to Poland and Ukraine to get a picture of the situation for myself, report back and most of all, to help. 

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For the next eight weeks, you will be able to listen to a new episode every week. The episodes will alternate between conversations with those I met along this journey and mini episodes spoken by me.

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This Podcast is dedicated to my friends. It’s for the ones in the United States, who have been trying to understand what is going on but are too far away to fully imagine. It’s for the helpless one, who doesn't know what she can do to make real change. It’s for my Ukranian friends and their loved ones. It’s for the person who needs a guide on how to become active and involved as a volunteer. It’s for those routing for Ukraine and offering help. 

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I want to thank my friends who made me feel safe during my time in eastern europe by tracking and checking in and by talking through my and their fears and worries with me, but who still let me go and take this very personal and important trip. You know who you are and I love you dearly.

Thank you also to my current University, Antioch University. I have been so inspired by my classmates and teachers who are serving as my honest, critical and supporting audience for my first ever, far from perfect but nevertheless passionate Podcast experiment.

Let’s go!


This is Vienna-Przemyśl
 

 My bus departed in Vienna after a long, overdue visit to a dear friend, steadily heading South-east, first through Czech Republic and then all the way through Poland, to Przemyśl. I recall being quite relieved about the twelve hours it was going to take me to reach my final destination. During the busride I was mentally preparing myself. Who were these people right and left next to me? Were they going to help as well? Some spoke Ukrainian, a few spoke English, most of them Polish. For me, there was no going back now. Because I was working on a movie right up until this trip, I was not even really fully able to properly think of what I was about to do and where I really was about to head. Friends and family here and there had commented on my plans with much anxiousness and wonder in their voice, but somehow, I was able to not let it affect me too much. I really wanted to do this. This was my vacation between jobs. Some go to the beach, I headed to the border of- and later into a war-torn country. By the time I arrived hours later than expected, the blue sky had turned dark, the fields of sunflowers and wheat were no longer visible, and I knew I was not going to get a proper meal until the morning at least. Luckily though, I was picked up from the station by my host’s mother. She did not speak even a speck of English, but somehow we were still able to locate each other and got along quite well. Communicating without being able to use English would become a very common practice for me in the next few weeks. We drove through the dark streets of Przemyśl, the little polish south eastern border town nearly 20 minutes away from Ukraine that had become one of Europe's largest refugee transit points when the war broke out. Last February, the city’s negative headlines involving rising homophobia and their extremely conservative administration were washed over by international praise. The town of roughly 60.000 residents became the working ground for highly acclaimed, international media and the first pit stop on the rough journey of millions of Ukranians fleeing the war that was started by Russia's president, Vladimir Putin. Much of the world is angry at Russia, and so are people in little Przemyśl. As we approached the large, golden “M” sign belonging to what my host refers to as “America Restaurant!”, she slowed down the car and presented it to me in all its glory. She proudly said: “Polska tak McDonalds, Ukraina tak Mcdonalds”..she paused and then continued: “Rosja, nie McDonalds. Nie Rosja!”. As much as she speaks English, I speak Polish. So not at all. But I still understood what she was referring to and I am sure so do you. It made me smile. Once we arrived in my little private apartment, I was taken right back to my childhood. My father used to work in Poland for a couple of years which is why I would spend many vacations visiting Poland. Back then, I remember observing the same, kind Polish hospitality I was subjected to when arriving in Przemysl. My hunger and hopelessness to eat until the morning was met with tea and cookies prepared by my host well after midnight. I remember creating my first ever Email address at the age of 9 in Poland and the severe internet connectivity hurdles that came with eagerly trying to email friends and family back then while being in eastern europe. I am astounded to report that those connectivity issues did not take long to revisit me on this dark night on the border of Ukraine. No Wifi around. After taking a quick walk on the open field separating me from Ukraine to try and maybe find a spot with cellular connection, I was able to write a quick “I have arrived safely” to my best friend before falling asleep and dreaming about the coming weeks.

Thank you for listening to Inside the Other Side. I am always happy to connect with you listeners via email or on social media @insidetheotherside.

Until next week!

Slava Ukraini!


Episode 2, This is Tesco

Episode 2, This is Tesco

When I arrived at the former supermarket-turned refugee transit center, it took less than ten minutes and  a quick check in with police officers for me to become a part of this little outside world inside our big world. Wearing the yellow vest with the languages you speak written on it, means you are here to serve. Almost immediately after entering the large, loud and people-filled complex, two women came up to me asking for diapers. This is how I became an automatic part of the mother and baby room and was begged to cover the nights. The room held about 200 beds and almost each one of them was continuously taken. The main purpose of this center was to offer rest after a long journey. Typically, this is the first stop in a long journey to refuge for Ukrainians. They arrive in buses, in cars or by foot with luggage and family, walk up to a specific registration table flying the flag of their desired end-destination, register, get tickets and travel information for this destination, are put up in a room matching the flag of their destination and rest here for a few days. While countries such as Italy, Spain, The Netherlands, Switzerland, Austria and Scandinavian countries are an option at the registration point, most of the refugees gravitate towards the UK, German and Canadian registration tables. As a German, this is no surprise to me and I feel almost a little bit trained in how to conquer and live with refugee waves in my country. “We can do it”, our former chancellor Angela Merkel once said in 2015 and I wholeheartedly agree. Wir schaffen das.  “I’m here to register from Russians for Ukraine” was one of the first things I heard in the transit center. Of all the things I was mentally preparing myself to hear and see, this was a sentence I absolutely did not expect. There are Russians here at the border, providing humanitarian aid to Ukranians?  It did not take long until I met two of them. Ilga and Ksenia became the two new friends I imagined and hoped to meet all along while on the bus to Poland when thinking about the coming weeks and who I might possibly meet. To me, they became such crucial and essential pillars during my time in Przemysl. Ksenia had the experience of being there a total of 1,5 months, and Ilga, who I worked closest with, spoke Russian and English fluently. They are two Russian women who both had left Russia many years ago and live abroad now. They’ve had enough of their country and brought much experience to the table. Especially Ilga and I had hour-long conversations in which she often would refer to Ukraine as “the other side”. This somewhat actually inspired the name of my podcast. Many in Poland, be it volunteers or residents speak of “Poland'' and “the other side”. An especially often heard sentence: “Do not dare to cross to the other side. It is not as safe as they say”.

Interview with Ksenia and Ilga

Thank you for listening to Inside the Other Side. I am always happy to connect with you listeners via email or on social media @insidetheotherside.

Until next week!

Slava Ukraini!


Episode 3, Personal Checkpoint

Episode 3, Personal Checkpoint

 “I am tired. I am tired, tired, tired. My body is tired, my brain is tired and so is my heart”. Those were the words I wrote into my journal after being in Poland for only five days. Within five days, I had pulled off three night shifts in the constantly dark and musky mother and baby room where you could always hear at least one crying infant and tons of coughing. I had set up countless cots in the large room with the giant “13” tagged onto its outside wall and seen suffering and grief many of you are being reported about on the news. It’s real. During the night shifts, Ilga and I would take a sunrise break in the morning and step out onto the parking lot to stretch and breathe. Watching people leave on the 5AM bus to Germany became one of my routine things to silently do. Every morning around this time, dozens of refugees would roll their suitcases and carry their sleeping toddlers wrapped in a blanket across the parking lot, the increasing number of injured young men would roll their wheelchairs or limp with their crutches. All of them were up to enter the bus into their new, unknown lives. After completing work at the center, I would walk out into the crisp morning air. I purposefully always parked the bike given to me by my host family 5 minutes away from the center so that I would have those silent moments of walking from the center to my bike. They helped me regroup and refocus myself. Leave what I encountered in the center that night behind, think and be thankful. I really needed and cherished those walks and bike rides home. On my early morning bike ride I would usually listen to the radio news. It gave me glimpses into the rest of the world but it also was particularly odd to listen to reports about what I myself was an active part of aiding during these days. I was a 20 minute car drive away from the war. More notes in my journal include sentences like this: “I am so thankful. For my two powerful passports and the stable sovereignty and democracy my countries are currently running on. For my warm and rich home and freedom to live my life as planned and wished for”. On one of the first mornings, I was unable to fall asleep after a night at the center. My thoughts were spinning. This experience has shown me that no matter how dark times and the world can get, things will always somehow be ok. Things will work out. They will not be fair at all times or even at all and are often surely far from perfect, but for those who survive, life goes on fueled by strength and community. We are currently managing a gruesome and extremely upsetting war for sure and there is no excuse or apology in the world good enough to justify it. But the amount of people who have shown up to help, gives me such hope and this little, comforting idea that somehow things will be alright. People will show up for one another. That's what we do. 

Thank you for listening to Inside the Other Side. I am always happy to connect with you listeners via email or on social media @insidetheotherside.

Until next week!

Slava Ukraini!



Episode 4, This is Ukraine

Episode 4, This is Ukraine

 “I am leaving the door to the apartment unlocked with the key sticking inside in case you need to get to my belongings. I am taking my German passport because it is European. My American one is on my bed. You have my location on my apple watch. I will text you right before and hopefully also after we cross the border. I Love You”.

This is the text I sent my friend on the morning of my first departure to Ukraine. I packed a bag with extra clothes. Practical, warm clothes. I bought multiple water bottles and snacks for days. A blanket and a pillow. Today, I was going to Ukraine. Can you tell how much the news of Russians kidnapping volunteer workers in Ukraine scared me? I prepared for the worst, hoped for the best and still went. After days at Tesco, I needed a change of scenery. Right when I needed that longed for change, I met Ian who you will meet in just a moment. He told me about his lonesome trips back and forth to Ukraine and after defeating the fearful voices telling me not to go to the other side and consulting with a few people who really knew what they were talking about on this matter, I decided to go. I did not tell my family at the time. My closest friends knew. So did the embassy. 

Interview with Ian

As Ian and I mentioned, the organization World Central Kitchen was one of such importance not only to us who were volunteering, but to Ukranians being impacted by the war. Where there is a crisis in the world, they show up and make sure that everyone is sufficiently nourished. The hour long traffic caravan of trucks at the border trying to leave Ukraine are in fact mainly supply trucks from World Central Kitchen. Their kind and tireless volunteers provided three warm and healthy meals a day along with coffee, snacks, sandwiches and fruit at all times. If you are looking to volunteer or support an organization on the ground that I myself can not even imagine missing during my work at the border, please consider learning more about them and potentially getting involved at worldcentralkitchen.org. They are heroes!

Thank you for listening to Inside the Other Side. I am always happy to connect with you listeners via email or on social media @insidetheotherside.

Until next week!

Slava Ukraini!



Episode 5, This is Warsaw

Episode 5, This is Warsaw

After getting back to Przemysl from Lviv and sleeping an entire day, I decided to move on to Warsaw. I had been in contact with an American teacher named Paul who was urgently searching for an English speaker to take over his classes at a more long-term facility for Ukrainian refugees. Getting out of depressing Tesco where lice and sickness had broken out and into a large city sounded like just what I needed. I am so happy I went. My train ride reminded me much of the ones in Germany. Full platforms of people fleeing, handing in child after child and bags after bags, booked out train cars with people sitting on the ground and of course, the obligatory toddler meltdown that could be heard through the entire train. Just like on my 12 hour bus drive to Poland, I used this 6 hour train ride to read, write and think. When I arrived at the train station, I was welcomed by a now well gotten used to image: World central kitchen tents and hubs for refugees. Besides this feeling more modern due to being in Poland's capital, not much changed. Hello, Warsaw my old friend! Hello big City! The day after, my new energy filled self met another American named Tom who had briefly subbed for Paul. This center was such a contrast to what I had just come from. A fresh and sterile smell, clean indoor showers and toilets, a large cantine, classrooms and of course the giant rooms filled with hundreds of cots. Everyone was extremely welcoming and excited about my arrival. I got started immediately and hardly had time to stress over the fact that I never even had taught my second language, English, to anyone! The timetable with my name immediately brought in 12-16 extremely eager students and we spent the first hour just getting to know each other. While I was afraid to be too invasive when asking questions about them and their life, I quickly found out just how important asking exactly these questions were. The students' ages ranged from 9-70 and so did their proficiency level. One thing they had in common though, was that they tried to show up, no matter what. I immediately fell in love with my little group and the classes we created together twice a day. It did not take long for me to notice how absolutely crucial these classes were to them and their daily life. All of them were on hold, waiting for a Canadian visa approval. The longer the wait was, the better their English was expected to get. At the center, I met Ukrainians from the hardest hit parts of the country such as Mariupol, Odessa, Kherson and Charkiev. I heard stories of businesses being lost, freshly built homes being burnt down and families split up indefinitely. Again, the stories from the news became a name and a face. I will never forget my students and friends at the center. I am so thankful to have gone to Warsaw and can not wait to return.

Thank you for listening to Inside the Other Side. I am always happy to connect with you listeners via email or on social media @insidetheotherside.

Until next week!

Slava Ukraini!



Episode 6, These are my People in Warsaw

Episode 6, These are my People in Warsaw

Interview with Paul and Aleks

These Ukrainian Song Lyrics were recorded and spoken by some of the Ukrainian Students I taught in Warsaw. Since recording this, Aleks has been able to reunite with his little daughter and wife in Canada. 

Thank you for listening to Inside the Other Side. I am always happy to connect with you listeners via email or on social media @insidetheotherside.

Until next week!

Slava Ukraini!




Episode 7, Where do you go from here?

Episode 7, Where do you go from here?

With my arrival at the Warsaw airport, I was able to witness the final steps of many people’s journey from a partially russian occupied Ukraine to safety. I thought much about my students who I taught how to navigate an airport and airplane as many of them had never traveled by airfare but were soon bound to move to Canada. I’ve escorted people out of Ukraine into a short-term transit center, I’ve taught English at a long-term refugee center, I’ve assisted people in trains and finally shared the floor with hundreds more seeking safety at this seemingly chairless airport. While my crappy cheap airline flight got delayed over and over again and the floor became more and more crowded, I had to work hard to contain my soon to be expected, long held off breakdown. I had been in people-filled halls one to many times this month at this point. “You have nothing to complain about” I said to myself over and over again while slowly dozing off just to be woken by one of my newly won friends from the center texting me a picture or the kids there all being treated to the coolest new sneakers by sponsors. I was finished. I cried. Finally! I was wondering when this would come. I cried and cried and cried. I am just so sad. I am sad to see this lovely world in this state and the suffering countries like Russia cause the world's citizens to go through for their own gain. I am sad to see millions of people disoriented and displaced, their lives, homes, careers and loved ones just taken away from them senselessly. I am angry. I am so very angry. I am angry at my naive self for thinking something like this could never happen. I am angry at Putin's Government, at Putin himself and the people in Russia who are just standing by this invasion, claiming they can't do anything and complaining about nothing more than things like fast food restaurants being taken away from them. Seeing what I saw in those few weeks in Poland and Ukraine intensified what I sensed might be the case. Being complacent no longer is an option for me and nor should it be for you. You’re lucky. You’re lucky enough to be alive and to be able and help. I hope this Podcast inspired you to do so.

Thank you for listening to Inside the Other Side. I am always happy to connect with you listeners via email or on social media @insidetheotherside.

This was the last regular episode for this season and I am so glad you stuck with me throughout these last seven weeks despite the heavy topic. Stay tuned for one very special episode next week with my friend and artist Daria Kolomiec.

Until then and always: Slava Ukraini!




Special Extra Episode, Daria

Special Extra Episode, Daria

Hello and welcome to this very special extra episode of the Podcast. I am proud to share this week’s episode with you and can not wait to introduce you to my friend, Daria Kolomiec. Daria and I met this summer as she was studying at my former art conservatory. She was featured in the New York TImes for her work as a DJ and for her anti-war activism. When we met, I had just returned from Eastern Europe and it felt like Daria and I somehow just knew each other from another world despite the fact that she was just living a few blocks away from my apartment in New York City! We became quick friends and have been in close contact ever since. Fun fact: She wrote the Music to this Podcast and generally has been a priceless helper and adviser to me on this project.

Interview with Daria

If you would like to find out more about Daria or follow her journey and work, please consider following her @dariakolomiec, on her musicurs app or check out her website. She also gladly takes donations and is currently performing around the United States again to raise money for Ukraine. 

Thank you for listening to Inside the Other Side. I am always happy to connect with you listeners via email or on social media @insidetheotherside.

Slava Ukraini!